There are dozens of buzz words and marketing gimmicks floating around in the promotion of sustainability: from “green” to “natural” to “eco” and beyond. It makes things tricky as a consumer to sort out which labels have definable meaning and which are merely designed to prey upon your desires to make an Earth-friendly choice. Further complicating things, are the endless debates about which aspects are the most important to consider. All the way up the supply chain there are variables which can be made more sustainable for the planet; let’s break down a few components of the apparel industry:
Farming/Growth of Raw Fibers
Starting off on the most basic level of the “Green” apparel industry is organically grown fibers. There are measurable standards by which the label organic can be applied to fibers such as cotton. The pioneering standards for organic cotton were set by the Organic Exchange (OE). The OE Standards allow consumers to know what percentage of their garment is made of organically grown cotton. Each country or region employs its own set of organic farming standards; in the USA this is controlled by the USDA National Organic Program. The NOP regulates the types of fertilizers that can be used and prohibits processes such as genetic modification and irradiation.
Processing and Dyeing of Fibers
Many garments can be made of organically grown fibers, but then are sent through extreme chemical dye processes or water-wasteful systems which are similarly harmful. There is a comprehensive set of regulations established by the Global Organic Textile Standard which prohibits the use of harmful agents such as chlorine-based bleach, toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes. It also accounts for how the water that cleans these fibers is treated after use in the processes. You can read more about it here.
Manufacturing
What about after the fibers and fabric have been made? From a socially sustainable standpoint, sweatshops and child labor practices get a lot of media attention. There are, however, many other factors that can be taken into consideration, such as packaging and the carbon footprint of transporting goods to and from a factory.
The Consumer Level
Being a more educated and conscious consumer is not just about knowing where your clothing was made or what its fiber content is. The longevity of your clothing and the ways which you care for them are similarly important. Dry cleaning processes are not only expensive, but they often use harmful chemicals. Clothing that is better constructed, and made of quality fabrics, will stand up to more wearings over time. These are the clothes that are able to become hand-me-downs or heirlooms, which is another great way to make your apparel purchasing more sustainable.
Little Esop is proud to work closely with our entire production process, from the fabric mills up to the factories (located here in New York!). Not only does it help us to bring you the best possible product, but we have much more confidence in the practices implemented in the creation of our line. Clearly this is a complicated topic whose surface has merely been scratched here. Hopefully this has given you a few things to think about the next time you’re out there shopping!
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